Footwear



s. ZIDE FOOTWEAR Dec. 3, 1940.

Filed June 9, 1939 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 s. ZIDE FOOTWEAR Dec. 3, 1940.

Filed June 9, 1939 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 jwe 7620 7":

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE FOQTWEAR Samuel Zide, Lynn, Mass, assignor oflone-third to Jerome I. Schoen, Boston, Mass, and oneethird to David Fluke, Swampscott, Mass.

Application June 9, 1939, Serial No. 273,249

Claims. (01. 36-57) This invention pertains to footwear and reearly steps in, the process of making the imlates more particularly to shoes of the pump proved shoe, the vamp being shown as opened type and to a novel method of making them, the out flat for convenience in illustration;

, .invention having for its principal object the Fig. 7 is a view. of the insideof the vamp ilprovision of a. pump of practical and commercially lustrating the next successive step'in the process,

acceptable construction having its throat porthe vamp being shown opened out fiat;

tion so designed as to minimize any tendency of Fig. '8 is a fragmentaryysection to large scale the edge of the upper material to bite into the on the line'8.8 of 'Fig.'7; wearers foot. Fig. 9 is a similar section on the line 9-9 of 1 Prior attempts to attain the above or similar Fig. 7; 10 objects have ordinarily involved a necessary and Fig. 10, is a plan view showing the inside of the substantial departure from usual methods of proupper. as it appears at the.completion of the opducticn, with a concomitant distinctive and eration, the upper being opened out fiat; sometimes inartistic or otherwise undesirable ap- Fig. 11 is a view showing the appearance of 1 pearance in the finished shoe. The present inthe outside surface of the upper at the complevention makes it possible to obtain the desired tion of, the throat forming operation, the upper functional characteristics in a shoe which need being opened out fiat;

not noticeably differ in appearance, at least to Fig. 12 is a section to large scale on the line the casual observer, from standard commercial l2l2 of Fig. 11; types of shoe. Fig. 13 is asimilar section on the line I3-l3 20 Moreover such prior attemptshave usually inof Fig. 11. volved constructions such that the effect sought Fig.,14 is a fragmentary plan view of apiece after; if attained at all, was confined to a limof composite bead-forming tape of a modified ited area at the most forward part of the throat construction;

opening. However, the part-of the foot which is Fig. 15is a fragmentary transverse section 25 most sensitive to pressure is located approxithrough the edge of the upper, illustrating the mately at the inner front corner of the throat first step in the use of the tape of Fig. 14;

opening, one of thelarger nerves being near the Fig. 16 is a section similar to that of Fig. 13,

' surface of the instep at this point and overlybut illustrating the use of the tape shown in Fig.

ing the substantially unyielding phalangeal bone. 14; 30 In prior constructions, as often as not, there Fig. 17 is a view similar to Fig. 12, but illusis an actual thickening and stiffening of the uptrating the use of the tape of Fig. 14; and per material at this very point where flexibility Fig. 18 is a fragmentary section, to large scale, and yieldability are most tobe desired. In acon the line |8-l8 of Fig. 1.

cordance with the present invention no such Referring to the drawings, the numeral ldes- 35 thickening of the upper material occurs at this ignates a shoe of the pump type embodying the point and the elastic yield of the upper may present invention. This shoe comprises the upreadily be extended to include the inner corner per 2, the sole 3, and the heel 4. The top edge (or both corners) of the throat opening thereby of the upper is provided witha finish B, for insuring the utmost comfort at the place most example of the kind known as a French-cord 40 needed. edge, which extends uninterruptedly around the In the accompanying drawings wherein one entire periphery of the top of the upper (includdesirable embodiment of the invention is illusing the throat end of the foot-receiving opening trated byway of example: T) and which is of substantially uniform ex- 459 Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a shoe of the ternal appearance atall points. However, alpump type embodying theinvention; though this edge finish is of substantially uni- Fig, 2 i a ma i w of th inner surface of form appearance, it is to some extent elastically vamp useful in making the improved shoe; stretchable at the front of the throat opening, i 3.1 plan view f a length of tape .emalthough .at other points it is substantially inployed in making the improved shoe; extensible. 50 Fig. 4. is a section to large scale on the line In preparing this edge finish or head B in ac- 4--4 of Fig.3; cordance with the present invention, it is pre- -Fig.-5 is a section on the line 5-1-5 of Fig. 3; ferred to proceed substantially as follows: Re- Figafi is a" plan view showing the outside surferring to Figs. 3, 4 and 5, a composite beadface. of :the vamp and illustratingone of the forming strip, comprising two lengths of tape 6 and I is first prepared. The lengths of tape 6 and 'l are of substantially equal width except as hereinafter referred to and of substantially the same length, the length of the two pieces being such as to permit them to extend completely around the top edge of the upper of the shoe and to provide a slight overlap at the points where their ends are joined. The tape 6 is the outer or finish tape, and in accordance with the present invention is preferably elastically stretchable-consisting of a length of rubberelastic webbing including textile material of such a nature and being of such a fabric con,- struction, for example woven or braided, as to provide the desired exposed surface finish and appearance in the completed shoe. The lining tape 1 may be of any desired material, usually a textile narrow fabric, and is substantially inextensib-le. These lengths of tape are disposed in contact with each other with their longitudinal edges, in registry and are preferably united by adhesive, as indicated at 8 (Fig. 4). That part of the inextensible lining tape 1 which will extend around the forward end F of the throat opening T, is substantially reduced in width so as to form an elongate recess'or cutout portion 9 terminating at the'points l and leaving a very narrow section of this lining tape overlying one margin only of the elastic tape 6 at this point.

Referring to Fig. 2, which shows the inside of a conventional one-piece vamp 2 it may be noted that the edge ll of this vamp is that which defines the top edge of the shoe upper and which also defines the throat end of the foot-receiving opening T. As a preliminary step, the margin of the vamp at the throat may be furnished, if desired, with a reinforce strip l2. This reinforce strip, if used, is preferably of elastically stretchable material and may be secured 'to the inner side of the vamp by means of adhesive. However, the provision of this reinforce strip is optional, and it may be omitted if desired. At this stage in the process, the vamp may be closed at the bed in any usual manner, although for convenience in illustration herein, the vamp is shown opened out flat.

Having prepared the composite strip of finish forming material, this strip is now disposed against the outside surface of the vamp as illustrated in Fig. 6 so as toextend along the top edge H oftheupper and around the throat, the strip 5 being so disposed that the tape 6 contacts the vamp and so that at the throat end of the foot-receiving opening the narrow part 1a of the lining tape is spaced from the edge F of the vamp, leaving only the elastically stretchable tape 6 to register with the edge F. The strip 5 is now secured to the vamp by a sewed seam l3 which is disposedas close to the edge H of the vamp as it ispracticable to do, the ends of the strip being slightly overlapped at an'inconspicuous point, usually just forward of the heel at the inner side of the shoe.

The composite strip 5 is now turned over the top'edge ll of the vamp as illustrated in Figs. 7, 8 and 9, so that the free marginal portion of this strip is disposed at the inside of the vamp. This marginal portion of the strip 5 is now preferably secured to the inside surface of the vamp by means of adhesive I4 (Fig. 8). In thus turning the strip 5 over the top edge ll of the vamp, the strip 5 is made to assume a more or less rounded bead-like form of smooth arcuate curvature in transverse section, as illustrated in Figs.

8 to 16, it being noted that the strip is not drawn down so tightly over the edge I I as to prevent this smoothly rounded and attractive bead-like appearance.

The shoe lining L is of usual materials and of substantially usual pattern, except that at the front of the throat opening the margin of the lining is recessed so that the top edge of the lining is spaced further from the top edge of the outer element of the upper than at other points.

The upper margin of this lining is now lapped over the inturned margin of the composite strip 5, as illustrated in Figs. 12 and 13, and the parts are secured together by a sewed seam l5 which extends through the several thicknesses of material and permanently joins them together. Except as hereinafter pointed out, this seam is placed near enough to the top edge of the outer element of the upper so that it is substantially concealed at the outside of the upper by the bulging lower portion of the bead B. However, in passing around the throat end of the foot-receiving opening, this seam'is spaced farther away from the top edge of the vamp, following the recessed margin of the lining, "as indicated at l5, so that at this point it does not impose substantial restriction upon the stretch of the beadforming material.

As will be noted from comparison of Figs. 12 and 13, the effective portion of the finish bead B at the throat opening consists solely of the extensible tape 6, since the upper edge l6 of the narrow band '1 of the inextensible tape is spaced a substantial distance below the top edge H of the vamp, whereas at other points in the shoe the finish bead B comprises both the extensible tape 6 and its associated inextensible tape 1. It

will further be observed that, at the front of the throat opening, where the'seam I5 'is spaced a substantial distance from the top edge II of the upper, the upper material is allowed to stretch within its normal capabilities and this degree of stretch of the upper material at this point, coupled with the permissible stretch of the tape 6 at this point, provides the requisite yieldability of the shoe upper at the front of the throat opening to prevent any cutting ofthe wearer's foot by the, edge of the upper material at this point. However, at other pointsalong the edge of the upper, the seam I5, together with the inextensible tape 1, substantially prevents stretch of the upper material so thatthe shoe preserves its lasted shape as well or even better than shoes finished in the ordinary manner.

In order to avoid the necessity of forming the recess or cutout 9 in the individualstrip of the bead-forming tape, it is contemplated that tape such as shown in Fig. 14 may be used. This composite tape is made; in any desired length. From this material appropriate lengths to extend around the top edge of the shoe are cut off as desired. This composite tape 5 includes the elastically stretchable tape 6* and the relatively in extensible textile T these tapes being united by means of adhesive,,it being noted that the tape 6* is substantially wider thanthe tape 1* so that its marginal portion M is free to stretch and contract. I

In applying this composite tape 5*.to the shoe upper, theexposed margin M of the composite tape (Fig. 15) is placed in registry with the top edge of the outer member 2 of the upper and is secured thereto by the sewed seam l3". The composite tape is then folded over the top edge of the upper so that its free margin lies against aeaa vva the inner surface of the-upper-towhich it-m'a'y outer margin R of the tape 6 and'which-follows structed and arranged relative to the: extensible the top edge of the lining -very=closely.

At the-front of the throat Opening the" top edge of the--lining-= is spaced farther from the of Figs; l6-and 1'7. Thus-in causing the sewed seam W to follow the top edgeof the lining; the

seam is spaced farther from the top of the outer member 2 =of the-upper at the front of the throat opening than at other parts. Whereas the seam l5 firmly unites the elastic member 6 the inelastic member I and the relatively inelastic lining at points closely adjacent to the top edge of the outer member of the upper around the sides and back of the shoe, this seam I5 is substantially spaced from the top edge of the outer member of the upper around the forward edge of the throat opening. The stretchable member 6 is thus allowed to stretch quite freely at the front of the throat opening without being opposed in its stretch by its engagement with the lining, and since the inextensible tape T is substantially narrower than the extensible tape 6*, the tape 1 does not take part in the formation of the rolled exposed portion of the edge bead and thus does not substantially oppose stretch of the latter at the front of the throat opening. However, at other parts, where the seam IB passes through this extensible member T and the lining, the exposed part of the bead is substantially inextensible.

By reference to Fig. 18 it will be evident that in attaining the objects of the invention the shoe upper is not abnormally thickened at the front corners of the throat opening, thus avoiding painful pressure upon the nerves of the foot such as has resulted from some prior constructions designed to provide elasticity at the front of the throat opening.

It is to be noted that the provision of the stretch or yield at the front of the throat opening in accordance with the present invention does not necessitate any substantial difference in appearance of the edge finish or bead at this point,the only visible difference being that the seam l5 drops slightly below the bead at the forward edge of the throat opening so as to be come visible. As this seam is not conspicuous, a shoe embodying the present invention, although possessing the desired stretch at the front of the throat opening, is hardly distinguishable to the ordinary person from a shoe of the same style not embodying this improvement.

While certain desirable embodiments of the invention have been illustrated by way of example, it is to be understood that the invention is not necessarily limited to these precise embodiments nor to the particular materials referred to, but is to be regarded as broadly inclusive of any equivalent construction or of substitute materials such as fall within the terms of the appended claims.

I claim:

1. A shoe of the pump type having an upper and a finishing bead extending uninterruptedly around the entire top edge of the upper, including the throat portion, said bead being of substantially uniform appearance throughout, the

bead *comprisingan extensible element andan i inextensible -element, each of said constituent elements of-the bead" extending uninterruptedly from 'theback ofthe pump along oneside, around the-throat end of the foot-receiving opening, and thence along the opposite sideito the: back of the pump, said inextensible element being soconele-mentas to preventstretohing of the extensible element except'in the vicinity of the throat end of the foot-receiving opening.

2". A shoe of'the pump type having an upper and a finishing bead extending uninterruptedly around :theentire'top. edge of the-upper, including the throat end of-the foot-receiving opening, saidbead being of 1 substantially uniform appearance throughout, the bead comprising an outer finishing tape of elastic material and a lining tape of substantially inelastic material, said tapes being of substantially uniform width except at the throat end of the foot-receiving opening where the inelastic tape is reduced in width through the provision of a cut-out in the edge nearest to the edge of the upper thereby to permit the elastic tape to stretch at the throat end of the footreceiving opening.

3. A shoe of the pump type having an upper and a French-cord finishing bead extending uninterruptedly around the entire top edge of the foot-receiving opening, said bead comprising a substantially inextensible lining tape and a relatively extensible outer tape, said tapes being anchored along one edge to the outer surface of the shoe upper except that at the throat end of the foot-receiving opening the lining tape is cut in from the secured edge thereof and is unsecured to the upper, the tapes being turned over the top edge of the shoe upper so that the lower marginal portions of the tapes are disposed at the inner side of the upper, and a sewed seam uniting said lower marginal portions of the tapes to the shoe upper, said seam extending close to the top edge of the upper except along the throat end of the foot-receiving opening where it is spaced forwardly from the edge of the upper, the lining tape being effective to prevent stretch of the outer tape except at the throat end of the foot-receiving opening.

4. A shoe of the pump type having an upper and a French-cord finishing bead extending uninterruptedly around the entire top edge of the throat opening, said bead comprising a pair of flexible tapes of substantially the same width disposed in registry with one another, one of said tapes being a substantially inextensible lining tape and the other being an elastically stretchable outer tape, a sewed seam uniting said tapes along one edge to the outer surface of the shoe upper near the top edge of the latter, the lining tape being so reduced in width at the throat end of the foot-receiving opening that it is not caught in said sewed seam, the tapes being turned over the top edge of the upper so that the marginal portions of the tapes are disposed at the inner side of the upper, and a sewed seam uniting said marginal portions of the tapes to the shoe upper, said latter seam being located closely adjacent to the top edge of the upper except at the throat end of the foot-receiving opening where it is substantially spaced from said edge although engaging both tapes.

5. A shoe of the pump type having an upper and a composite strip of flexible material forming a finishing bead which extends uninterruptedly around the entire periphery of the top [stretchable tape, at least, to the outer element of the shoe upper close to the top edge of the latter, the lining tape being of such lesser width than the outer tape, at least at the throat end of the foot-receiving opening, that at the throat 'end of said opening said lining tape is not caught in said sewed seam, the composite strip curling over the edge of the upper to form a rounded head with the registering edges of the two tapes disposed at the inner side of the upper, said last-named registering edges of the two tapes being spaced from the top edge of the shoe upper, and a second sewed seam uniting said latter registering edge portions of the two tapes to the shoe upper, said second seam being so closely adjacent to the top edge of the outer element of the upper as to be substantially concealed by the bulge of the bead except at the throat end of the foot-receiving opening where it is substantially spaced from the top edge of the upper although engaging both tapes.

SAMUEL ZIDE. 

